new blog address is www.arturoskitchen.blogspot.co.uk

From the middle of October 2014, the new address of the blog is

www.arturoskitchen.blogspot.co.uk

Cheers

Pane Toscano: first of a new series of recipes from Tuscany

This is the first recipe of a series about dishes from Tuscany, my own land in Italy.
Coming from the Middle Ages, this is an unsalted bread for disputed reasons.
On those days the salt was expensive, mainly because of imposts of some kind,  and in the countryside the poor families could not afford such price.
Some others say that the salt was not easy to be found. I guess they might have both happened.

As in every country, you could find hundreds, thousands of different recipes about the same dish.
Personally I have 4 recipes coming from 4 different books, but I find the following satisfying my family.
As you will see at the end, being unsalted makes this bread very versatile and a perfect mach for savory or sweet matching. Surely this bread loves strong flavors.

I'm afraid, if you are not patient, you won't love this version.
It takes longer than 48 hours before getting into the oven.
Of course, you don't need to watching the dough proving every time.
This is an interesting part of the bread making. You don't need to attend the chemical reaction, even if, I have to say honestly, I peek every now and then so see what happens.

Hand kneading recipe
It gives 1kg loaf, more or less

First day

Melt 5gr of fresh yeast in 180gr tap water, then add up 300gr of strong white flour, trying to combine everything, but working out as least as possible, or you will activate too much the gluten, avoiding to burst the typical rich and sour smell. Cover with a wet cloth and keep it in a cupboard.
After 20-24 hours or so, this is what you will find, hopefully:

Second day

Mix up 50gr of water with the proven dough, then, when it is all well combined, like here below, add up 100gr of strong white flour, and knead briefly. Cover the bowl and wait up 20-24 more hours.

During this process we have been feeding up the yeast, fungi, small microorganisms that convert the carbohydrates in the flour to carbon dioxide (which is way the dough grows in size) and alcohols (that is way we smell ethanol which, btw, evaporates in the oven). 

Third day

Melt 2gr of fresh yeast ( just a small amount to keep the dough going for a short time), in 150gr water.

Then mix up 250gr of strong white flour. Try to work out at least as possible.

If the dough is sticky, dust your hands with flour, then make a long loaf and fold it ( this move gives the dough some more strength). Dust generously the dough with flour and wrap it up in a kitchen towel.

Wait for, at least 90 minutes. You will see the dough growing and full of cracks and stretch marks on the top.

Dust a baking tray and turn on the oven 220 C.

After 15 minutes, more or less the time for the oven to reach the temperature, move the dough from the towel to the tray, making sure it does not loose the shape.

15 minutes at 220C

25 minutes at 185C

15 minutes at 185C on a rack in the oven, so the bottom will cook up properly.

This is the masterpiece result 

It goes well with this, perfect for a wholesome breakfast

and this

and this, Crostini neri toscani, made of chicken liver

and anything else with strong flavor, such as Parma Ham and pickles.

Buon appetito!!

Bolognese Sauce - slowcooking by Gennaro Cataldo

Jamie Oliver's mentor, Gennaro Cataldo here recalls memories of his childhood, while living on the Amalfi coast, telling stories about his mother wholesome slow cooking. 

50/50 Wholegrain/Strong flour Focaccia with Prosciutto

It only takes less than three hours to have this focaccia warm ready on your table.
From ingredients mixing to halving and filling the focaccia with fresh cut Prosciutto.
It does not really take a lot. Just proving, proving and wholesome ingredients

90 minutes 1st proving in a bowl
30 minutes 2nd proving on a tray

30 minutes in the oven


Same ingredients as the Focaccia
with the only difference in the flour:
350gr strong white flour and
150gr wholegrain flour

abundant olive oil, sea salt and rosemary on top and prosciutto between the two layers.

Have it warm!!

Class of 21st September 2014 - a big thank you to all of you

It is said that pictures are better than words...

Sea salt is the final touch for the Focaccia

Nan is stretching the Focaccia dough

now it is Mike's turn

and Caroline

having fun is the second objective of the class

that dough needs some fixing...

firm, thin and crispy Pizza with your favorite toppings

time for lunch...at last

Sarah finishing off my pickles...

oh what a great lunch!!!

good chat over lunch

Thanks to all of you

See you on the 19th October for another class

Ciao

Conviviality

"..at the (very) heart of all cooking, whether you are rich or poor, is the spirit of conviviality, the pleasure that comes from sharing a meal with others. and there is no enjoyment of food without quality..."
from MADE IN ITALY, by Giorgio Locatelli, 2008

Pane Toscano on the way

Rise baby, rise

This unsalted bread, typical from Tuscany, comes from very far.

It was used to be made in the Middle Ages in Italy, when for several reasons people could not afford to salt or could not get access to it.

The simplicity of this rustic bread gives way to more savory toppings of fillings.

Think about salami, prosciutto, garlic and November new olive oil, ripe tomatoes and flaky sea salt, or even rich flavor like Nutella....

Soon the recipe...

Pickles for my Sunday class

+

Budino di Riso translated Rice Pudding...but it is not the same. at all!!

This is a treat you find in Cafès in Italy as an alternative to croissants and other wonders you may have for breakfast.
This recipe is in two stages. In the first part we prep the pastry (Pasta Frolla) and in the second part we make the filling (made of Crema and Riso).

Pastry
200gr plain flour
100gr rice flour
150gr granulated white sugar
150gr butter
1 large egg
2tsp baking powder
1tsp salt

Get a large bowl and mix rice and plain flower along with sugar, baking powder, salt and butter (previously cut up in cubes) with your thumbs. Beat the egg and pour it in to the bowl. Mix up everything and make a dough, wrap it up with clingfilm and leave it in the fridge for about 1 hour.

Custard
1lt milk
300gr (risotto) rice
1 vanilla pod
1 lemon skin grated
6tbsp granulated sugar
2tsp baking powder
2 large eggs

Milk absorbed

Pour the milk in a boiling pan and wait until it boils, add vanilla and lemon skin (make sure it is organic or wash it thoroughly). Add the rice and keep stirring with a wooden stick until the rice has absorbed almost all the milk. Add the 3tbsp sugar a leave it to cool down.

Mix the eggs white until fluffy and put them in the fridge.
Beat the yolks with the other 3tbsp sugar and the baking powder until pale and fluffy.
Mix up now the whites and yolks and add them delicately to the rice.
The filling is ready now.

Whites and yolks

Turn on the oven 170 C and take the pastry out of the fridge.

Lay the pastry on a surface dusted with flour and roll a 1 cm thick pastry base.

Use a 9cm round pastry cutter and push any disc into every hole of a non stick muffin baking tray.
Push with delicacy around the sides so the pastry stick to them.
Now pour the filling using a icing pastry bag or if you are not very confident with those, use a spoon.

Ready to bake

Put the tray in to the oven and bake the risotti for 40 minutes.

When done, leave them to cool down for half an hour, than pull them out of the tray.

Just out of the oven

Don't forget the icing sugar, it gives them a delicate touch.

Ready to eat

a.

Norwich Restaurant Week

Shame there is no Italian restaurant in the listings...

Lunch at Jamie's Italian: a feedback

A Monday afternoon in August.
smiles at the entrance and 12 tables present
background music, not Italian

been given the menu but no signs of a smile, hardly an eye contact

quick service, order in 5 minutes
Artisan Italian Breads and Tagliatelle Bolognese.
Breads meant to be a starter (it's among the nibbles on the menu) but been given after the Tagliatelle.
I don't know why

food brought over before the drinks ?!?

Food
The Tagliatelle have the lovely idea of tiny bread crumbs instead of Parmesan cheese,
which is actually compulsory, but I have been amazed by the crumbs, so I'll accept it
The Egg pasta is cooked properly but the sauce tastes too much of bay leaves, which is good in itself,
but it is not in the original recipe of Bolognese sauce.
A friend of mine, Giuseppe from Sardinia, during University time, he would do Bolognese sauce with bay leaves. The name Bolognese comes from Bologna, a town in the north of Italy, where this sauce comes from. There is no sight of bay leaves.
Actually, it could be a good idea if was delicate and the taste should remain in the background, not the first thing it pops in your mind.
Also, it urged to me drink a lot while having the Tagliatelle, to wash out the bay leaves taste.

Back to Jamie's, too much bay leave in the sauce, but 7 out of 10 from the plate.

Italian Breads. Not an astonishing presentation, but essential

Selection of white and brown sourdough (from the day before), Grissini, Focaccia and music bread.
Some of the breads come from Jamie's bakery in London and you can tell...
I should not really say anything about the Focaccia....
The olive tapenade was excellent, spicy and lovely
Olive oil was a bit pungent, but this is the commercial olive oil we find in the groceries.
There is really nothing you can do. 6 out of 10


Staff
chefs shouting "Service!", desperate to find a waiter
beards for 3 waiters and 3 overweight (plus me, makes 4, ah ah!)
a waiter, used to be a supervisor for a chain restaurant in the city center, leaning onto tables while taking orders...
a bit disappointed, miles away from Jamie's appearance


This is the lovely Deli...

I was wondering who is going to have all those Prosciutto and Salami, but most of all, when?

In the end

Food 6/10 and 7/10
Service 5/10

It is worth a visit but nothing exceptional from the experience.
hope it helps

New season of Italian Cookery classes starts on 21st September...join in!

Here we are, ready for a new season of Italian cookery classes




This year we begin with a "Pasta and Pizza" theme on 21st September at Manor Farmhouse, on the way to Cromer.

Beautiful country kitchen, stove and ...fresh eggs in case somebody wants some scrambled.

10am to 3pm

Tea and Coffee (Italian) available throughout the session

Aprons and hats are available. Pens and paper are not needed, there is nothing to write.

..but most of all... lunch is included!!!


You will learn how to make egg pasta, how to cook property pasta, how to make an awesome Focaccia and Pizza.

And you will choose your toppings!!


Join in for only £35,00 per person for the day.

The Class is run by Arturo from Tuscany, genuine Italian, with a catering background and a passion for food and teaching.

Sign up @ a.fanciulli@btinternet.com or 07879 408882

Ciao!!

End of Summer treats: a lobster, sea fruits and fried fish

If you had a lunch at Arturo's in Porto Santo Stefano (Italy), during summertime, you would probably end up enjoying this kind of menu

Spaghetti with Lobsters

a fresh lobster, ideally from the sea, linguine, tomato sauce, parsley

Sea fruits salad

calamari, octopus, mussels, clams, shrimps, vinegar, pickles, parsley, sunflower oil 

Anchovies in sour sauce (scaveccio)

anchovies, onion, carrots, rosemary, vinegar, sunflower oil 

recipes to follow.....

Getting ready for the series of cookery classes

The first part of the new series will be focused on Pizza and Pasta.

Do you know the meaning of TRAFILATA AL BRONZO on a packet of Pasta?

Producers use bronze or teflon plates to shape the pasta. Bronze looks more 'precious' even by the sound of it. 

In fact, bronze plates are better for several reasons....

Dinner at Paolo's

In this new section of the site I will tell the experience I had at some places in Norwich that feature Italian dishes.
I start off with a dinner at Paolo's in St. Giles.
A Monday of August, 6.30 pm.
As I get in I am approached by a lovely waitress, without an English or Italian accent, probably from the East Europe, but smiley and kind. The only other waitress has the same features.

6 tables being served, quite environment.

The background music is Italian: Venditti, Raf, Battisti, Vanoni and Morandi among others.

Quickly given the Menu I order in 5 minutes.

The Menu, a bit sticky if I'm honest, has a generous selection of typical Italian dishes. Among others Lasagne, Spaghetti Carbonara, Antipasti and a neverending list of Pizzas.
The Menu is satisfactory.

There is also a board of Specials that comprises Ravioli, Melanzane (aubergines) and Affettati (Prosciutto, Salami...)

Basic selection of Beers like Peroni and Moretti.
Wine list satisfactory with Chianti Classico, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo,Valpolicella, Verdicchio and Pinot Grigio.


I order Calamari fritti, Spaghetti Carbonara, a selection of cheese and sparkling water.
And here they come the problems....

The Calamari are served in 10 minutes with tartare sauce (not home made), tomato, cucumber and rocket.
Fish should not smell fishy when they are cooked, but they do in this case.
The batter is a bit heavy as you can see at first sight, brown color. 4/10

Main course is Spaghetti Carbonara. I wanted to compare the ones I make at the classes with this one.
Smelled of garlic at first I soon realized that it also has a lot of onion.
The thing is ..... in the kitchen one must choose onion or garlic, not both of them.
In the case of Carbonara garlic is not acceptable for the only reason that the recipe requires onion and that excludes garlic.
Moving over, the sauce is a bit too liquid mainly because of the cream, which is like swearing.
But this is the english way. Even if olive oil was among the ingredients, it is not recognizable among all that cream.

The Pancetta is smoked and this is not good, it clashes with the tradition.
The Spaghetti are AL DENTE, after all, and this is reassuring.
In the end, my vote is 5/10

The board, actually a plate, of cheese is made of Taleggio, Brie and Smoked Cheddar Cheese.
This is when I thought I was missing something. Should not have they been all Italian?
4 on 10, I am afraid.

I should have chosen a dessert but I fell over my passion for cheese. This time I got hurt.



Finally
Environment, Music, Menus, Service Pass
Food quality, tradition, Resubmit





Next time I will have the lovely pizza which I already had but carefree....

Focaccia Genovese - Versione Italiana per il mio amico Beppe

Ingredienti

15 gr lievito fresco
300 gr acqua tiepida
500 gr farina da pizza
2 cucchiaini sale
2 cucchiai olio di oliva
Rosmarino e salvia essicati
Condimenti a piacere

Procedimento

Sciogliere il lievito nell'acqua in un recipiente. Aggiungere olio e la farina.
Iniziare ad impastare e poi aggiungere il sale.
Impastare per 10 minuti fino ad avere un impasto morbido e elastico.

Riporre l'impasto in un recipiente oliato fino a che raddoppia in volume.

Oliare generosamente una teglia da forno sul fondo e sui lati. Nella foto è 26cm per 36 cm. 

Se la teglia è più piccola, la focaccia sarà più alta. Se più grande o divisa in due teglie, sarà più bassa.

Rovesciare l'impasto sulla teglia e, senza tirare l'impasto, schiacciarlo verso i lati.

Cospargere generosamente di olio e di un pò d'acqua.

Fare dei buchi con le dita. L'olio e l'acqua ci scivoleranno dentro.

Lasciare lievitare per un'altra ora. Ecco il risultato quà sotto:

Adesso condire a piacere, per esempio con cipolla, acciughe, pomodorini freschi o secchi, olive ecc.

Io aggiungo rosmarino essiccato e salvia tritata, ed infine sale grosso. 

Attenzione, evitate di mettere il sale dove ci sono già ingredienti saporiti come le acciughe.

Accendere il forno a 230 gradi e aspettare mezz'ora per mettere in forno la focaccia.

Adesso, se vi piace morbida, come da ricetta Genovese, dopo 20 minuti è pronta.

Altrimenti, se piace più croccante, lasciare 5 minuti in più.

Appena fuori dal forno, mettere su una gratella per far respirare la base.

Se invece piace plain, cioè senza buchi, allora non si fanno i buchi e si lascia senza condimenti (con qualche eccezione!). S'è capito che mi garbano l'acciughe??

In questo caso, si taglia nel mezzo e ci si metto il nostro bel Prosciutto Toscano.

buon appetito